I love Croatia. Logan loves Croatia. While we were still in this beautiful country we were already planning where we were going to go when we come back. Not IF we come back, WHEN we come back. It is stunningly beautiful, the people are kind, and the food and wine is delicious.
For our next Croatian adventure we took the mid-day ferry from Split to the small island of Vis. We spent the rest of the first day settling in, eating pizza, and drinking Karlovacko (Croatian beer).
The next day we gave ourselves a much-needed down day for reading, writing and resting. We took an afternoon stroll around the main port town admiring the stunningly blue water and deciding what we were going to do with our last day on Vis. We intentionally chose to go to Croatia before tourist season to avoid crowds and high prices, but as a result the island of Vis was all but empty. There were only three open restaurants and none of the tours were running, so our options were pretty limited. However, as a result it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves.
We decided to rent a scooter for a drive around the whole island. In six hours we drove almost every paved road, saw countless vineyards, marveled at the extraordinary water (can you tell how obsessed I am with the water?) and climbed down a rocky mountain to a beautiful beach.
The water was far too cold to swim in, but we sat with our feet being lapped by the waves, eating lunch and enjoying an amazing day.
The next day we took the morning ferry back to Split and caught a bus to the gem of Croatia, Dubrovnik.
Our arrival in Dubrovnik was met by rain and 40,000 members of the European Christian Youth (there was some kind of conference going on), all walking in the opposite direction that we were trying to go. It took a lot of time and patience to maneuver through the throngs of umbrella toting teenagers, but we finally made it to our B&B inside the old city walls. We decided to reward our dodging-smoking-European-teenager-Ninja-skills with sushi. The sushi was pretty good (not southern California, owned by a Japanese family good) and helped alleviate the craving we both inevitably have after going without our favorite food for too long.
The next morning we woke up to beautifully clear skies and warm weather. We took the clear weather opportunity to walk the city walls and visit the old fort. It was warm enough to swim, but the Christian Youth Conference was still in town and over-running the beaches, so after a long day walking in and around the city we retreated back to our B&B to cook steak and asparagus (well Logan cooked…, I just enjoyed) and watch a movie.
Our third and final day in Dubrovnik was stormy and a little cold, so we bundled up and found a park to read in. After the weather had cleared a little we visited Café Buza for a glass of champagne. Café Buza is accessed through a tiny door in the city wall and is carved right into the rocks jutting out from the city. Although the champagne was overpriced, what we paid for was the amazing view, charming ambiance and the right to sit and sip champagne and read for over an hour.
I honestly was a little underwhelmed by Dubrovnik. Yes, the old, walled city was beautiful. Yes, walking the walls was amazing. Yes, Game of Thrones is set here. But, other parts of this amazing country (and region) charmed me far more than touristy Dubrovnik. However, I am optimistic than when I return (yes, WHEN), I will come ready to give Dubrovnik another chance, because it would seem that everywhere in Croatia has the ability to charm and amaze.