After our day on Capri I worried that everything along the Amalfi Coast would seem… just not quite as beautiful. Although I really loved Capri, the Amalfi Coast did not disappoint. With my calves in excruciating pain after all the walking on Capri (and in Rome and at Pompeii, we estimate we spent 28 hours walking in the first five days) we decided to take it easy and explore our home base on the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento.
Sorrento seems divided into two parts, the old town where the tourists are and the new town where the Italians are. Not to say that there are not Italians living and working in the old town, mostly dealing with tourists of course, but the old town clearly has made an effort to stay “old” and cute. The streets are narrow, little shops line their walls, and small restaurants are spread throughout town, all charging a small fee for choosing to dine with them (usually 2 euro per person, which is not actually small at all). We have not yet determined if it is socially acceptable here to bring your own water to a restaurant (No free water!), but from the looks waiters give us when we decline their expensive (4 euro) water tells me that people usually just suck it up and pay.
It took us all of an hour to walk around old town. Since we were not shopping and had already eaten lunch there was not a lot to do except once again admire the beautiful coastal water and snap pseudo-artsy shots in attempt to capture just how spectacular the water really is.
We spent the rest of the day recovering from five days of walking in our hotel room, watching movies on my laptop, drinking wine and eating salami and marinated artichokes from the deli next to our hotel.
On our final day on the Amalfi Coast we decided to take the twisty coastal road to another small town on the coast, Positano. The windy shelf road over the hill and down to Positano had amazing views and reminded us of the Italian version of the Big Sur Coast in California. We ended up getting off a stop too early in Positano and walking straight down a massive hill to get to the harbor and beach. We must have walked down at least 500 stairs, which was rough on my still recovering calves, but offered great views of the town and the coast.
Positano is much smaller than Sorrento, and looked exactly how I expected the towns on the Amalfi Coast to look, with buildings and roads carved into to rocky hillside, leading down to a small, rocky beach and harbor which I am sure is filled with sunbathers in the summer. Since it is still early April, the weather was not warm enough for us to hang out in our bathing suits, but that did not stop us from enjoying a pizza on the beach. The town was lovely, but like Sorrento, if you are not shopping there is not a whole lot to do so after eating and enjoying the views we hopped back on the bus (this time at the right stop, which is accessible by a gently sloped hill). The ride back was just as beautiful and helped confirm that the Amalfi Coast IS all it is cracked up to be.